I want to try linocuts. Where the fuck do I start?
First of all, what the hell is a linocut?
A Linocut is a type of relief-print. It begins with an image that is carved into a block of linoleum. That block is then inked and used to print multiple copies of the design.
For the nerds, a VERY brief history of the linocut.
Linocuts were first used by German Expressionists at the beginning of the 20th century which is very young in terms of fine art forms, but it is really just a modern adaptation of the OG relief-print, the woodcut. Woodcuts were invented by the Chinese around 200AD, so when I say OG, I fucking mean it. This early form of printmaking was used to print onto paper (also invented by the Chinese) and textiles.
Why I LOVE linocuts.
1. Price - When I’m considering a new art medium my first question is, how much is this going to cost me in supplies/equipment? The answer for linocuts is not a whole lot. Start-up costs are cheap as fuck and some materials can be replaced with things you probably already have at home. I will break down costs and supplies more specifically further down, but to put it simply, for about $30 you can make your first linocut. Insane.
2. Space - This craft requires virtually no space. I have a whole linocut business that I operate out of one tiny room, and that's a WHOLE ass business. So, if you’re just looking to dabble and see if you like it, then space really is of no concern.
3. It feels good in my soul - The whole methodical process of printmaking, from design conception to printing helps me slow down. I find a calm rhythm in the repetitive motions that play through each step of the linocut process. She's groovy and I just really fucking dig it.
Ok, let’s get to the meat and potatoes.
What do I need and how much is this going to cost me?
There are essentially 7 things you need to make and print a linocut and with a little creativity and the re-purposing of household items, you can get these 7 things for as little as $30! Basically you will need lino, carving tools, ink, brayer, an inking surface, paper, and if you’re working with harder lino’s you will need either a baron or a spoon to apply pressure for printing. I’m going to go a little deeper into each of these tools/supplies below and will list some brand recommendations with each. At the very bottom are kits that have most of the basic supplies included as well as a quick-links list if you’re already done listening to me ramble :)
1. Linoleum
Obviously you’ll need linoleum to do a linocut. Lino comes in a couple different formats. There are two types that I’d recommend for beginners. They are available in a variety of sizes and prices, you’ll need to look a little at each and figure out which one is right for you.
- Soft lino - This is the easiest lino to carve, only requires light pressure for printing, and it lays completely flat which is very nice when inking and printing your block. The downside is it’s not very durable in the long term, meaning a year or two down the road it may not hold up so well for printing. The softness of the lino can also make it difficult to print very fine detail. If you want to try soft lino I recommend one of the two options below.
- Blick Readycut - This is my favorite soft lino, the top layer is gray and the under layer is white which can be helpful when carving, it’s also the cheapest option available for soft lino.
- Speedball Speedy-Carve - Some people prefer speedball over the blick brand but honestly I can’t see any quality difference and this type is a little more expensive, not by much but still. So it’s listed because other people like it and because it’s included in the kits listed below.
- Traditional Battleship Gray lino This is what I use. It is a harder lino, meaning you will be able to achieve finer details and this type of lino has a longer shelf life than the soft stuff. You will need a bit more muscle to carve and print it though. Nothing crazy, but still worth noting. This type of lino comes either mounted or unmounted. It does tend to bow which is why some people prefer to use the mounted version which will stay completely flat. I like to purchase unmounted lino and occasionally will mount it myself.
2. Carving Tools:
If you are just starting out the best option is to get a multi-tip tool Speedball Linoleum Cutter. Blick also makes a version of this (Blick Lino Cutter Set) that is a few dollars cheaper, quality looks about the same, but I don’t have any personal experience with their version. These tools have interchangeable gouges that you screw into the top, giving you multiple gouges for the price of one. $9-12
Also, I highly recommend a slip strop. Sharp tools is a lifesaver. It makes it a lot easier to carve and can help save you from slipping and cutting yourself. It's not required but I recommend you get it and get this one. Flexcut Slip Strop $18.28
3. Ink:
Your image is carved and you're ready to print, so let’s get some ink out bitch. Relief printing inks are what we traditionally use for linocuts. They are either water based or oil based and they both have some real strengths and weaknesses that will come into play when determining which one you want to use. I use both of these in my own work. Remember that inks are like paints, when you go cheap you sacrifice quality, for beginners I recommend the basic speedball brands the quality is a little better than the bottom of the barrel without breaking the bank. Blick makes cheap versions too but in my opinion the speedball ones are a better deal.
- Water based inks - These dry faster and clean up easier with just soap and water. The fast drying time means you only have to wait about 24 hours before the print is completely cured, sometimes less. BUT faster drying times also means that the ink will be drying out faster while you are printing. You may have to clean up and restart the inking process mid-way through if you are doing longer printing sessions. It gets too dry to cleanly print after about 45 min - 1 hr. They are slightly cheaper than the oil based inks as well. Recommended: Speedball water soluble block printing ink $5.28 for 1.25 oz tube
- Oil based inks - In most of my applications oil based inks are superior to water based inks. I have the time and space to wait a few days for the prints to completely dry. And I prefer the longer dry times because it means that the ink can be open and out for hours while I print without drying out. Oil based inks are also great because they are not water soluble when dry which makes it easier to do things like add paint or watercolor to a finished piece. You can also use oil based inks to print on fabrics. Recommended: Speedball Oil-based block printing ink $6.82 for 1.25 oz tube
- Other inking options - If you are making small designs with the softer lino you can also use ink pads to ink the block. I personally do not use these and have not experimented with them but know other artists who use them and like them.
4. Inking Plate:
You will need a place to roll out your inks before you apply them to your block. This step is essential to an even application of ink over the top of your lino block. I use a piece of acrylic but you can also use regular glass if you’re not as clumsy as me. You can source a small piece of glass for really cheap or free by snagging one out of the front of an old picture frame. I would try to get an inking surface that is at least 8x10” here is a good sized option that you can order online: Clear Acrylic Sheet 12x12” $6.22
5. Brayer
This is the tool you use to roll out your ink, it’s just a roller with a handle. I recommend just getting the Speedball Soft Rubber Brayer, it comes in a variety of sizes, I recommend the 4” for starters $13.59
6. Paper
Paper to a printmaker is a whole universe that we just don’t have time to get into here. So to keep it basic you can go as simple as grabbing paper out of your printer (quality will be lacking im sure but this might not be so bad for your first go at it if you already have some on hand.) If you’re into other art mediums and have old sketchbooks laying around you can experiment with that too before buying paper. If you want to buy, some actual printmaking paper, I recommend Thai Kozo Paper (25” x 37” $2.66 per sheet) they are thin while still being very durable. They are so thin in fact that you can partially see through them when you are printing. Which is very helpful when learning how to print by hand so you can see how much pressure you're using and what areas still need work to print cleanly. This paper is shipped in larger sheets and you will have to cut or tear it down to size for whatever you are printing. If you’d like to look into other block printing papers you can find some other good options here
7. Baren or Printing Tool:
When you are printing you will need to use pressure to make the relief. If I'm using soft lino I find that my hands work well enough, but after a while that can be tiresome. A baren is the traditional tool, but you can also use the back of a wooden spoon if you have an extra one laying around. If you’d like to purchase a baren I recommend this one: Blick Economy Baren $12.98
Kits:
If you are just starting out then a kit is absolutely the way to go to get a bulk of your materials, they are A LOT cheaper than buying everything individually. Here are a couple options
Speedball Water Based Block Printing Starter Set $24.12Speedball Deluxe Block Printing Kit $49.43
This kit has everything the starter set has with a few additional tools. It has a carving anchor which can double as an inking plate. Colored inks, red, yellow, blue, black, and an ink extender for making transparent colors. And it has a block of mounted linoleum. Still a good deal for the price. You will still need to acquire paper and a baron or wooden spoon for printing but that’s it.
Quick access supply list with links:
- Linoleum
- Soft lino
- Harder lino
- Carving tool: Speedball Linoleum Cutter
- slip strop: Flexcut Slip Strop
- Ink
- Inking surface: Clear Acrylic Sheet
- Brayer: Speedball Soft Rubber Brayer
- Paper: Thai Kozo Paper
- Baren: Blick Economy Baren
I hope you found this helpful and am happy to answer any additional questions you may have. You can contact me at info@kimberkey.com with all inquiries. Cheers, and happy printing!